The Bacton Altar Cloth, a rare survival of Elizabeth I's wardrobe, on display at her former home
See the Bacton Altar Cloth, a rare survival of Elizabethan dress worn by Elizabeth I and the iconic Rainbow Portrait, this autumn at Hampton Court Palace.
Following new research and conservation, Historic Royal Palaces Curators believe that the Bacton Altar Cloth once formed part of a dress worn by Elizabeth herself.
The high-status silver chamblet silk, professional embroidery including gold and silver thread, and distinct evidence of pattern cutting all suggest that the item was once an item of elite court dress. Tudor law meant that only the very highest levels of nobility and royalty were allowed to wear dress that contained gold and silver.
New research supports the theory that this was intended for the highest level of customer and that it is an item of dress from Elizabeth's own wardrobe, making it the only known surviving example of Elizabeth I's clothing.
It seems likely that the embroidered silk cloth found its way to the small village of Bacton by association with Blanche Parry, Elizabeth's most faithful servant and almost life-long companion. It is likely that it was sent to Bacton by the Queen or her ladies-in-waiting in memory of Blanche.
It was then kept safe as an altar cloth for centuries, before being identified as a rare piece of 16th-century clothing.
Displayed alongside the Bacton Altar Cloth will be the iconic Rainbow Portrait, on loan from Hatfield House, which depicts Elizabeth I wearing a gown that bears a striking resemblance to the cloth.
The portrait — attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger — was commissioned by Robert Cecil and is filled with symbolism including motifs of eyes and ears.
Accompanying the painting will be a selection of rare domestic print books dating from the Tudor period, which would have provided inspiration for many of the embroidered motifs fashionable during Elizabeth’s reign – including those found on the Bacton Altar Cloth – brought together for the first time with other stunning embroidery work from the period.
Unpacking the Virgin Queen’s now iconic style, the exhibition will explore the artistry and majesty of the Tudor wardrobe, Elizabeth's inner-circle of women, how embroidery served as a way of female bonding at court, along with the fascinating world of secret symbols and Elizabethan codes.
Image: Rainbow Portrait of Elizabeth I © Marquess of Salisbury/Hatfield House
The Bacton Altar Cloth has long been associated with Blanche Parry, Elizabeth I's Chief Gentlewoman of the Bedchamber and one of her most trusted servants. Blanche watched the infant Elizabeth’s cradle, helped nurse her through small-pox, and advised her. She acted as a gate-keeper to Elizabeth too.
It was not unusual for Elizabeth to pass on her discarded clothes to her confidantes, with records showing that Parry received many gifts of clothing from the Queen.
Experts identified the richly embroidered cloth as a piece of 16th-century dress in 2016.
Upon its identification, the cloth was loaned to Historic Royal Palaces, the independent charity that cares for Hampton Court Palace. It required urgent conservation and Conservators have spent three years undertaking a full conservation treatment of the object at the Hampton Court textile conservation studio and preparing it for display, ensuring its survival for future generations.
Conservation of the Bacton Altar Cloth was supported by:
The Leche Trust
Lord Barnby's Foundation
The Worshipful Company of Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers
The Worshipful Company of Tin Plate Workers alias Wire Workers
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